Designers Paul García de Oteyza and Catherine Pañera are going to sting the headline that heads this piece. Oteyza, the tailor's shop they founded eight years ago, is much more than Spanish capes, waving to the rhythm of flamenco, and wide-brimmed hats. “They are just an anecdote,” Paul says in an interview with Status. However, these garments are a good label – so typical of journalists – that summarizes the imaginary of the Spanish that characterizes this Madrid firm. “You have to use things without shame and without prejudice,” he adds. A customary proposal, which does not forget about innovation, that will play a point in favor in the next step of the brand: Oteyza will parade next January 15 at the Paris Fashion Week Men.
Two of the evils that plague this country are that we sell ourselves badly, to show a button (the successful Italian olive oil), and that we criticize those who succeed inside and outside our borders, and if not, that they tell it to Penelope Cruz or Fernando Alonso. However, the new generations are taking off the cobwebs of the twentieth century and repositioning Spanish as an element from which to create, export and sell. The gastronomic revolution was the advance, and the singer Rosalía or the designer Palomo Spain are some of the greatest exponents of today. Oteyza parades along this same path and searches in Paris, as did Cristóbal Balenciaga, a starting point for the internationalization of his imaginary.
Balenciaga
The mention to the designer of Guetaria is not trivial. He managed to tame Paris with his first collections, in the late thirties, with a Spanish spirit, in everything he learned (almost by osmosis) in his childhood in the house of the marquises of Casa Tores: the young designer was soaked in the works by the great painters of the art history of this country, such as Velázquez, Pantoja de la Cruz or Goya.
Balenciaga's career is, of course, a reference for Paul. A legacy so important that it will be present in the scenography that the Madrid tailor shop has prepared for its exhibition at the Paris Fashion Week Men: a Menina inspired by Cristóbal will have a leading place in the Spanish Embassy of Paris, location of the presentation of the collection of Oteyza
Lumières It is the name of that work that the Madrid tailor shop presents for the autumn-winter of 2020/2021. A nod to the Age of Enlightenment, which had its main imprint in France, with which it will release a series of garments that represent the Oteyza spirit. A style that stands out for monochromatism, in burgundy, mustard, green or black tones, and for some silhouettes that evolve and bring character to the classic male suit. The tailoring that was the National Fashion Award in entrepreneurship in 2018, has stood out for renewing the male aesthetic codes, based on the traditional tailoring.
Paul García de Oteyza is clear that men's fashion is living a revolution and that his proposal can occupy a good place in that man who is fond of artisanal and classic tailoring, but does not want to give up modernity and design. Thus, more fluid jackets without buttons or high waist pants elegantly dress the Oteyza man. And in Paris, the tailor shop seeks the springboard to that niche of buyers.
Paris
This gala experience has, however, been an almost unexpected gift. Paul and Catherine, like the rest of the industry, know that whoever wants to be someone in the world of fashion internationally must step on Paris, London or New York. Finally, the election was the French capital, because the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the body that brings together fashion brands and organizes the runways of Paris, approved the request submitted by the Madrid firm. A surprise, because the founders of Oteyza did not think it could be produced at first, but “it is a train that you can not miss,” says the designer.
The negative side of the Parisian experience is that Oteyza falls from the MBFWM cartel, which is held in Madrid from February 28 to January 2. However, that does not mean that the tailoring firm is separated from Spain. Oteyza has been chosen this week as the ambassador of Madrid Capital de Moda.
The female suit, the trend that empowers women