Bouzkachi, the Afghan sport that does not stop: blows of whip and goat skeleton as a ball

Thousands of spectators attend this practice in Kabul 800 years old. Face teams from 14 provinces of the country

Whip blows and the skeleton of a goat as a ball. Afghanistan organizes its first national 'bouzkachi' championship, a warrior sport that is 800 years old, a symbol of the culture of a country that endures despite years of conflict.

In Kabul, the country's capital, thousands of spectators attend this practice for a week, which faces teams from 14 of the 34 Afghan provinces. The crowd screams and whistles as the players, dressed in brightly colored uniforms, gallop across the muddy terrain, each trying to secure for his team the 50-pound, headless, gutted goat body possession.

A well-deserved moment of revelry for a country in full political crisis. The tournament was held despite threats of attacks, frequent in the capital, and fear of the new coronavirus epidemic.

Drag a goat

The 'bouzkachi', which means “to drag a goat” in Persian, consists of taking the skeleton, putting it between the leg and the mount, and galloping to the end of the field. Then circle a pole and return to make a “circle of justice,” drawn on the ground, where the trophy is deposited.

Originally from Central Asia, this very violent game comes from the time of Genghis Khan (XIII century). It remains the symbol of an Afghan culture that endures despite many years of conflict. “I am here to support my team,” he says. Shafiq Rahman, an official from Badakhshan province (northeast), whose team faced Bamiyan (center) on Thursday.

“My parents told me not to come because of security risks, but I am passionate about the sport,” said the 25-year-old. “You only live once, you have to enjoy yourself,” he added.

The screams of the street vendors, offering hard boiled eggs, sweets, and grenades, mingle with those of the fans, who laugh when a knight falls to the ground.

Safety

Haji Jawad Noori, a 'tchopendoz' (player) of the Kabul team, considers this sport “very difficult”. “You have to be fast and flexible. The skeleton is also very heavy,” explained the 28-year-old athlete to AFP, whose family has played 'bouzkachi' for several generations.

For Noori, the championship, which started on Wednesday, is a crucial stage in the history of a sport “that has never been played on this scale.” Organizers aim to turn this week-long tournament into an annual event, each time in a different city.

“We want to promote 'bouzkachi'. It is our national sport and we want it to be a discipline recognized worldwide,” he enthuses. Ghani Modaqiq, deputy director of the public television channel RTA, who signed a five-year contract to broadcast the games live.

As in all aspects of life in Afghanistan, the success of the competition will depend on security: the Taliban have attacked sporting events in the past. They banned 'bouzkachi' during their five years in power, between 1996 and 2001.

“They have committed many atrocities”

With insurgents returning to their positions today, when foreign troops are leaving the country, many Afghans worry about the future of their country.

Jawad Taraki's family fled Nangarhar (east) to Kabul in 2018 after the death of a member by fighters from the Islamic State group, present for several years in this province. “They have committed so many atrocities and caused so much suffering …”, explains the 25-year-old.

On a cool winter afternoon, in front of galloping horses and snow-capped mountains on the horizon, traditional Afghan music mingles with screams of joy and for a moment the pain is forgotten. “It is the first time I have seen a 'bouzkachi' match live. For a few minutes I have been able to forget the rest,” he concludes.